There’s nothing better than a sweater on those crisp, Fall days. One of my goals when coming up with the Mikayla sweater was to create a pattern that would be incredibly easy to customize both to different sizes and styles. Say, for example, that you want it oversized and not have any official sleeves. You can do that. I highly recommend this pattern to anyone looking for a quick and easy sweater.
- Worsted weight yarn (I used one cone of Sugar n’ Cream cotton yarn to make a sm/med size)
- Size K (6.5 mm) crochet hook
- A needle to weave in ends
- Stitch Markers
Abbreviations: ch – chain, st – stitch, sts – stitches, sc – single crochet, sl st – slip stitch, dc – double crochet, fdc – foundation double crochet, bpdc – back post double crochet, fpdc – front post double crochet
Rectangle piece for body (make two)
Begin by completing enough fdc sts so that it fits just over halfway around the widest part of your body (without stretching it). For a size sm./med. that I made, I started with 61 fdc sts. Make sure you begin with an odd number of sts.
Row 1: Ch. 2, turn your work. fpdc around first st., bpdc around next st., *fpdc, bpdc, repeat from * until end of row (you should end with a fpdc as there is an odd number of sts).
Row 2: Ch. 2, turn your work. bpdc around first st., fpdc around next st., *bpdc, fpdc, repeat from * until end of row.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1
If you would like to make your ribbing longer or shorter, you can add or remove rows by repeating rows 1 & 2.
Row 1: Ch. 3, turn your work. Skip first 2 sts., dc in 3rd st. *ch. 1, skip next st., dc in following st. Repeat from * until end of row.
Row 2-End: Ch. 3, turn your work. Skip the first dc and ch. st. dc in the next dc. *ch. 1, sk. ch. space, dc in next st. Repeat from * until you get to the end of the row. ch. 1, dc in 2nd ch. when you get to the initial ch. 3 from the previous round.
Once you have the length of your rectangles as long as you want them (I completed 31 rows of pattern repeat when I used cotton yarn and 34 rows of pattern repeat when I used acrylic yarn), you will need to attach your st. markers by the shoulders and the sides so you can stitch your two rectangles together to form the front and back of your sweater.
Stitch from the shoulder towards the neck as far as you want the shoulder to be closed (I did 13 sc across each shoulder). Then figure out how large you want your armhole to be and stitch down towards the ribbing starting where the armpit is. Follow my example as outlined in red. The stitch markers are circled and are what are holding my sweater together at this point. Just make sure that you are even on both sides to keep it consistent. This will be considered the wrong side since you will want the sc sts (or slip sts) to be hidden on the inside of your sweater (you will turn it right side out AFTER you’ve completed the sleeves). If you’d like to see how I joined my shoulders and sides, you can view the video below, which will start at that point….
Attach your working yarn just under the armpit into the side of a double crochet.
Row 1: Ch. 3, dc into side of the top of the dc. *ch. 1, dc into the side of the next dc to match up with the pattern, repeat from * until you get to the seam on the other side of the armpit. Do not slip st. to the beginning of the row.
Row 2-End: Ch. 3, turn your work. dc into the 2nd dc st. *ch. 1, skip ch. space, dc into the next dc st. Repeat from * until you reach the end of the row. Work a dc in the 2nd ch. of the beginning ch. 3 from the previous row.
Work up as many rows of this pattern as you’d like, leaving room for the ribbing. (I completed 10 rows of the pattern on each of the sleeves).
Cuff of Sleeves
Row 1: Ch. 2. This will count as your first dc. *Dc into ch. space., dc into next st., repeat from * until the end of the row. finish with a dc into ch. space of ch. 3 from previous round and dc in the 2nd ch.
Row 2: Ch. 2, turn your work. Fpdc around first st., *bpdc, fpdc, repeat from * until the end of the row.
Row 3-4: Ch. 2, Do the opposite of whatever you ended on in the previous round. For example, if you finished with a fpdc as I did, you’ll start this row with a bpdc and alternate between bpdc and fpdc until the end of the row.
Stitch up your seam, making sure that your sweater is still inside out (the seams from the shoulders and sides are facing out of the sweater). Finish your other sleeve, stitch up the seam, weave in your ends, turn the sweater inside out and it is complete!
If you’d like to view the tutorial in its entirety and get some extra tips from me on how to create this sweater, you can do so here:
Let me know what you think of this easy sweater! What would be your favorite way to customize it?
This is a FREE pattern, and by using it, you’re agreeing to the following legally-protected conditions.
You’re welcome to sell what you make with it; for online listings, please link back to my blog using something like this:
- Do not resell the pattern, altered or in its original form.
- Do not copy and paste the pattern onto your own blog, in a Facebook group, or anywhere else. Simply link to this page instead. Anything beyond this is copyright theft. You are welcome to copy/paste it into a document for printing, for personal use only.
- Do not pull any of my photos from this site (or any of my other sites) to promote yourself or your crochet business on your own blog, Facebook page, or anywhere else. The exception to this is if you want to share my article link(s) on your own blog; in this case, you are welcome to take one photo per post for use on your site as long as it is accompanied by a direct link back to my post and does not include any portion of the pattern itself.
- Do not post a translation of the pattern anywhere – this is copyright theft. If you would like to help make a translation available, I am happy to publish it on my blog with a link to your blog or Crochet-related Facebook page.
- Do not make a video tutorial of this pattern (or any of my patterns).